We were on 3 elephants; Dhitoo, the obstinate, had made a kill. The morning air was cold and fragrant. We slowly ambled through the river and the grassland. This was Corbett at its best. The crows were pointing to the spot and soon the elephants could sense the presence of the tiger. Sitting on the Howdah I could feel the shiver pass through my elephant. Every one was alert and there was tension and excitement. As we grew close, the Mahawats brought the 3 elephants close to each other. One of the elephants stepped on a branch behind which Dhitoo was – a thunderous roar and a lightening charge. Dhitoo was a very big male tiger, the elephants were well trained and stood their ground, though a friend lost a sola topee in the excitement.

Then something amazing happened and which I can never forget. The charge had brought Dhitoo to almost 15ft. from the elephants. It stood their angry and growling and then lay down right there and closed its eyes. I couldn’t believe it. The tiger had drawn its line and sent a clear message – thus far and no further. The sheer confidence, majesty and presence was amazing. We stood silently and Dhitoo just lay there almost unconcerned. Brij Kapurthala should have it all on film. For me it defined a management approach, confident, courageous and clear. It helped later in life.

Six months or so later we were headed in the night to Kumeria forest bungalow, on the fringes of the Corbett National Park. It is on an overhang, overlooking the fast flowing Kosi. No lights, but a great location. It was about 9pm. – a winter night. Suddenly my driver brought the car to a halt and said ‘Sambhar’. It was a really big tiger lit up in the beams of the car –close on the left. I studied its reactions – no hurry, no rush – a majestic gentleness, languorous confidence and a deep gaze. He kept looking into the light and six of us, sat silently; after what seemed like a long time, he turned and slowly walked into the shadows of the forest. On reaching Kumeria we lit a bonfire and opened a bottle of Cognac and silently drank into the star lit night. No one said much. This was life.

I was recently in Sariska, a great habitat for tigers with an abundance of prey. Three tigers have been relocated into the unfortunate void. Morning was opening up and we were feeling good in an open SUV. Suddenly the air filled up with the alarm calls of the langoor, Sambhar and the cheetal. The tiger was on the move and we could track it by the way the jungle responded to it. Were they rejoicing in the restored presence of the tigers ? Cuddled up in the gypsy we could share in the excitement. We wanted to but never saw the tiger, yet everyone felt elated and happy. We had experienced with the animals, its magical presence.

I sometimes marvel at the way one got drawn into this world of great creatures and fascinating human beings with tiger in their hearts. I also marvel at the fact that a sculpture sells for a hundred million plus and yet the most beautiful creation of nature is struggling to survive. The world the tiger inhabits has almost disappeared. We have to drive hundreds of miles to reach the isolated patches of wilderness and search the fast emptying shadows.

— Keshav Varma, GTI Program Director